When a Town Becomes a Stage: Carnival in Sitges, Spain

Last night 5 of us dawned makeup, glitter, and masks and headed to the nearby beach town of Sitges to experience the spirit of Carnival! Sitges is a town about 25miles south of Barcelona and is home to one of the most popular European celebrations of Carnival. Carnival celebrates the last week before the season of Lent. Lent is a Catholic tradition of abstaining from meat, alcohol, and other things for 40days and living more simply before Easter. The biggest celebrations take place on Sunday, Rua de la Disbauxa (Debauchery Parade) and Tuesday, Rua de l’Extermini, (Extermination Parade)- each with nearly 40floats with more than 2,000 participants and 300,000 visitors! It didn’t take us long to realize Sitges is also a popular destination for gay and lesbians and is one of the most gay-friendly places in the world.

 It was a loud, late night but super fun. The vibe was so friendly but also surprisingly peaceful given how many people were packed in the small town. I’d never experienced anything like it and if given the chance to go again, I will definitely participate more- I was underdressed for sure. Below are just a fraction of some of the crazy party-goers we came across, all of which warmly welcomed photos!

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Hostel Hoppin’: Lisbon, Portugal!

The first weekend of February, 4 of my friends and I went on our first trip of the semester: Lisbon (Lisboa in Portuguese), Portugal! We left Friday morning at the crack of dawn and arrived an hour and half later in the capital. No longer along the Mediterranean, we were now next to the Atlantic and in a time zone one hour closer to home!

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After arriving bright & early and taking an early morning nap, we headed off to lunch in the city center. We ate at a swanky restaurant in the plaza called Aura and got the always-economical Menu del Dia- soup, pork, dessert, and Sagre- Portuguese beer. Two and a half hours later (yes, lunch in Europe is no quick feat), we headed to Cascais beach via a 25minute train ride.  

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On Saturday, we got right to business and visited the 3 main historical sites located in the nearby district of Belem: Jeronimos Monastery, Discoveries Monument, and the Belem Tower. Throughout the day we met some great people. More than the sites, I will remember how kind and happy the majority of the Portuguese people were and who helped us along our way!
Jeronimos Monastery:
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Our walk between the monastery and the other historical sites proved to be entertaining. What began as us being innocent bystanders to a german shepherd obedience school, ended with a few of us participating in impromptu dog tricks. “Ladies, put your head down, cover your face, and don’t cry!” -Very random & very memorable in Portugal!
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Discoveries Monument- Dedicated to the Portuguese explorers:
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Tower of Belem:
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After returning back to the city center, we decided we wanted to watch the sunset from a high viewpoint.  I stopped to ask this older man for direction to the Castle of Sao Jorge and he insisted on tagging along for the rest of the hike. Even with the language barrier, he was so kind and helpful! He even showed us a short cut to the uphill climb through the city: up 5 stories in a super market elevator that landed us on top of a restaurant! When posing for the photo, he joked about pretending to be an American with us. An awesome encounter indeed.
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January in Barcelona (4)

This week, my art class walked to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya situated atop Montjuïc, one of the two highest hilltops in Barcelona. Not only was it awesome to see original pieces from the 20th century artists we’ve been studying, the views of the city were immaculate.
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We saw beautiful paintings from the Romantic, Realist, and Impressionist periods.DSCN0456-Lo-Fi
A Ramon Casas work: One of Barcelona’s most famous artists and one of the Els Quatre Gats (Four Cats).
As a mentor of young Picasso, he lead the Catalan art movement known as modernisme. DSCN0459-Lo-Fi DSCN0462-Lo-Fi DSCN0471-Lo-Fi DSCN0484-Lo-Fi DSCN0490-Lo-Fi
Snapshot from my walk home. It’s rare to find the Spanish flag here except on government buildings. The “state” of Catalonia’s independence movement is everywhere; the people’s pride and persistence is inspiring.
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After the field trip, I decided to go for a run. It was gorgeous. And weird at the same time. Mostly because I’m used to the most miserable NW January runs! Needless to say, the 20minute metro ride to the beach is beyond worth it.

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January in Barcelona (3)

This weekend, our program took us on a quick trip to the city of Zaragoza in the neighboring autonomous region (state), Aragon. When pronounced with the proper Spanish lisp, Zaragoza is pronounced “Saragoss-tha” and is the fifth largest city in the country. The city seemed so quaint and small though compared to bustling Barcelona; the peace was refreshing! The city is known for a few awesome historical UNESCO world heritage landmarks that we visited: Basílica del Pilar, La Seo Cathedral, and the Aljafería Palace.
The churches were awe-inspiring. Unfortunately, cameras aren’t allowed inside to preserve the original colors and finishes from the flashes. Wish I had photos to show since they were so beautiful but I do have some great photos of the Islamic palace!
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Below is the Basílica del Pilar venerates Mary, under her title Our Lady of the Pillar, praised as Mother of the Hispanic Peoples by Pope John Paul II. It is thought to be the first church dedicated to Mary in history.
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Below is Aljafería Palace; a medieval Islamic  palace built during the 11th century. The palace is important because it is the only preserved building of  Spanish Islamic architecture.
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January in Barcelona (2)

The first week of class was a success! All students only have class Monday-Thursday which is nice; I have plenty of time to explore the city or travel during the weekend. I’m enrolled in three culture classes and one Spanish language course.
I’m taking a sports & society class which examines the sociological, anthropological, and cultural influences on a region’s (in this case, Catalonia and Spanish) sports. Although futbol (soccer) dominates Spanish sports, as it does throughout Europe, I’m looking forward to learning more about other culturally important sports like bullfighting. I’m also taking a 20th-century art history class with a focus on Miro, Dali, and Picasso- all with Spanish ties. It’s proving to be more interesting than I initially thought and I’m looking forward to the field trips! Lastly, I’m taking a Spanish civilization and culture class that goes into detail about the historic importance of the Iberia Peninsula and how the various invasions have shaped the culture of the region today.
Below are just some photos I snapped throughout the week.
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January in Barcelona (1)

The first week in Barcelona was a whirlwind of new friends, places, and foods.

The program staff is fantastic at Barcelona International College (BIC). All are young and bilingual and eager to answer all of common sense questions like how to get around via the metro and where to get a local phone but also give us the scoop on good restaurants and gym memberships. Wednesday they took us on a beautiful hike along one of Barcelona’s 2 mountains (small by NW standards), Tibidado. The weather here is beautiful- nearly always sunny, low 60s during the day. After the hour-long walk, we enjoyed an authentic Spanish lunch that includes calcots (sort of like a sweet onion), pan con tomate (bread brushed with tomato, garlic, salt, & olive oil), lamb, and tiramisu. Most lunches here include 3 courses and one never leaves hungry after! 

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 Later that evening, a big group of us caught a FC Barcelona futbol game. Though their opponent, Cordoba, made for an easy Barca win (4-0), experiencing the futbol culture and watching arguably the best team in the world play live was amazing. Hope to catch another one before I leave!
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The program also took us on a day trip to Girona, a beautiful little city about an hour and a half north of Barcelona and an hour from the south of France. We were given a guided tour of the city and had lunch at a Catalan restaurant. The Catalan language is so tricky to comprehend, as it seems like a mix of Spanish and French. Luckily we had a menu translation! My first course was a macaroni plate, my second was similar to Shepherds Pie in the United States, and for the third I had a traditional regional dessert known as miel y mato (honey and fresh cheese). The cheese was in-between the milk and cheese stages, so almost like a cottage cheese consistency that was dipped in honey. Surprisingly so delicious.
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From Girona, we then drove another 30 minutes north to the city of Gerona (very similar name!) to visit the Salvador Dalí Theatre and Museum. Not usually a museum enthusiast but this place was CRAZY. He was crazy. He actually bought and converted an old Roman era theater and designed the museum himself (he’s even buried underneath!). In addition to Dalí paintings from all decades of his career, there are sculptures, 3-dimensional collages, mechanical devices, a living-room with custom furniture that looks like the face of Mae West when viewed from a certain spot, and other curiosities from Dalí’s imagination. Truly incredible.
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Week Six: An Abundance of Academics

Friday was the deadline for the short stories for both of my writing classes, and I had a partner presentation the coming Monday in linguistics that I needed to get ready for. My activity outside schoolwork can best be summed up by the number of pictures I took. I can take 200 pictures a day easy. I can take 200 photos within the span of three hours, and the only thing stopping me from taking more is the memory space on my camera. This week I took four pictures. Not a day, for the whole week I had only four pictures taken. Yeah. Not going to be much visual illustration of my points this time.

I did get some interesting insights into the academic system though. The first was the grading system. It’s one thing to read in the syllabus that the percent that a student is expected to manage out of 100 is lower (from what I’ve gather up until now this is because 100% to them means perfect professional quality.) It’s another thing entirely to here “I’ve done this sort of presentation for this teacher before and I got a 62%, which is pretty good.” It took awhile before my brain could catch up and realize that 60-70% here is a B. unless I go above and beyond all expectations on all my course work, I think I’m going to have mini heart attacks when I first get grades back on things before my brain can make the conversion.

My partner for the linguistics presentation also believes in aliens. I really didn’t know what to do with that, especially since it followed a discussion of what he felt was the best TV show Britain produced (Only Fools and Horses.)

The other interesting academic point was how assignments are turned in. the system is set up so that your work is graded a objectively as possible. Work isn’t handed into the teacher but rather submitted in a room that has boxes for each of the years. You fill out a cover sheet with your student number and the course information, and your name is covered so that the person grading can’t see it. You then drop your work in whatever box the course corresponds to (year one, two, etc.) and then you go home. The end. It’s actually a really nice system.

And here’s a picture of a chocolate lamb that I bought to help me stay on track when I was writing. There’s nothing like the promise of chocolate to make things go faster.

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The middle was interspersed with little air bubbles, which was nice since it prevented that coating of chocolate you sometimes get on your tongue. That’s always the point when I’m like “okay, I don’t think I want chocolate anymore.”

Week Five: Valentine’s Day, and Misadventures

This week was Valentines day, and, in the days leading up to it, specifically because my mother was curious, I made a point of taking pictures of shop displays that were Valentine’s themed. Or, that I thought were Valentine’s themed. Valentine’s day, as far as I can tell is basically the same here, just a little more understated.

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Granted there were shops like this, where you could practically drown in hearts and roses, but they tended to be places that rely on holidays like this to boost business, like florists.

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But there were also shops like this. This isn’t a valentine’s themed display. This shop always looks like that. Though they might have added a few more hearts now that I look at it again.

I’d been meaning to go to Rose Street, the next street up from Princes Street, and go street by street seeing what sorts of things were around the area, and I finished this week still meaning to do that. The route I took to get there ended up being in the middle of a mass of construction – I think they’re installing rails in the streets, but it was hard to tell – so, rather than course correct like a normal person, I decided to follow the pedestrian route in front of me and go in the complete opposite direction. I ended up at Calton Hill and a bunch of other places in between that overall validated a decision that was basically fueled by stubbornness.

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While this place’s existence doesn’t surprise me, it does make me happy. I both really want to go and am kind of wary of because it might not be as amazing as I think it should be.

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The Old Calton Cemetery has a statue/monument commemorating the American emancipation act. I can’t tell you how long I spent trying to convince myself that, no, I was not looking at a statue of Abraham Lincoln, this is Scotland, before I actually read the plaque.

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There isn’t really anything all that culturally relevant about this place, except it might have been in an ethnic neighborhood now that I think about it. I’m just including in because I’m pretty sure they only have one of their advertised services and this saddens me.

I had to pick up some house supply stuff (and jelly babies) at The Pond Stretcher, and noticed this on my way.

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I suppose he’s more recognizable after the movie came out, but for those who don’t know, this is Tintin from the Belgian comic The Adventures of Tintin. Dressed up Scottish for some reason.

Something that’s really been throwing me off is the Post Offices here. If they didn’t have a sign saying “Post Office” I would think they were some sort of convenience-souvenir store hybrid thing. I’m so used to post offices being places that are for everything to do with mailing something, and everything to do with mailing something ONLY that I’m actually having a hard time believing this is where you go to mail stuff and “post office” doesn’t just mean something else here.

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Why? Why would I want the person mailing my stuff to clean my clothes? I seriously need to find someone to ask about this.

I made an attempt at Arthur’s seat late in the week, but I didn’t set aside enough time to make any real progress and still be able to make it home before dark, and when I Google routes to the top, I didn’t pay enough attention to the directions and ended up going up a much steeper incline than I intended. So that remains on my To Do list.

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That’s Calton Hill as seen from part way up the slope.

Week Four: Graveyards, and Animals That Are Stuffed

I decided to start the week off by cementing myself as a Strange Person in the mind of my linguistics classmates by taking pictures of the light fixtures and outlets because they looked like faces.

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There were a bunch in the flat as well. Actually, there are precious few that don’t look like faces. At least they’re kinda cute and not the sorts of things that could keep you up at night because they’re watching you.

During the week, my free days were spent finishing earlier photo adventures that got cut short by my camera being cranky, which, oddly enough turned this into graveyard week. Yay?

First up was Greyfriars, where I got pegged as Canadian twice, the second time because I stayed on the trail when taking pictures rather than walking over the graves for a better angle. I’ve seen several people doing this and it always seems so disrespectful to me.  Is there any sort of standard graveyard procedure?

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The place is known for Greyfrairs Bobby, the Skye Terrier who waited by his master’s grave until he died. I keep hearing stories of dogs doing things like this. It’s like they’re trying to break my heart.

After that was St. Cuthberts Church, which is where John Napier – the guy the university I’m going to here is named after and the one responsible for that chapter you had to do on logarithms in math – is buried. Apparently. Only about a third of the gravestones are legible, so I didn’t even bother trying to find him. Most of the headstones were either so old the words were worn away, or they’d been recently replaced with new stones where the words were white on a sort of pink-red-white marble that’s almost painful to try to read. It did have some cool headstones though, and made it onto my mom’s list of Things She Wants to See when she gets here.

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Nana, nana, nana, BATSKULL!
Managed to get that stuck in my dad’s head for a day. I won’t say I’m proud of myself, but I am.

Having only really visited newer graveyards before now, it was really interesting to see the prevalence of imagery alluding rather bluntly to the fact that, yes, these people are in fact dead. Modern culture seems to ignore that fact as much as possible.

I got the chance to go to a pub called Bennet’s just down the street from my flat. I got fish and chips (because I adore it and I figure I should take advantage of it now while I’m some place that consistently does it right) but one of my flatmates ordered a steak pie and this is what she got:

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You can see how it’s a pie, I guess – it has a pie crust at least – but it was just so not what you would think of as a pie in the states that we were all a little stunned.

The weekend I took the chance to go to the general section of the National Museum of Scotland since I’d only been in the Scotland focused part up until then. The general museum stuff – taxidermy, shiny rocks, a bunch of different typewriters – is in the older building and has a more traditional museum lay out of rooms with display cases in them. It was still really well laid out, but after the newer building, which I’m guessing was built with the intention of being a museum and is subsequently very impressive from a museum studies stand point, I was a little disappointed.

That aside, I think my favorite section was the taxidermy.

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The majestic tiger. With perhaps the least dignified expression physically possible. I think I’ll call him Hobbes.

The most striking thing about the section – beyond the fact that, wow, my camera is a recalcitrant teenager that occasionally throws temper tantrums that consist of 20 blurry or out focus pictures in a row of the exact same thing – was that there was a display dedicated to the different methods animals use to fertilize their eggs.

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I don’t think I could see this happening in the U.S. Not without someone making a huge deal out of it.

What I’m Expecting

This post is my pre-departure post. What I’m expecting to encounter when I get there is illustrated by the pictures I’ve selected. I’m expecting to see narrow pedestrian friendly streets, and old buildings. I’m expecting the people to look a lot like me, in terms of dress and appearance.

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I also expect to see picture postcard river sides like this one.

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And beautiful pastoral country sides.

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In terms of culture I’m expecting the German people to be a little more reserved and conservative than most Americans, in short ‘my kind of people’. I’m also expecting to encounter some cultural differences that I haven’t expected. Every new country will have that as an element of a persons travel there. There isn’t anyway to get around that, you have to be willing to go with the flow and adapt.

I’m also expecting this experience to be a lot different than my first time over seas. The first time I went abroad was almost 37 years ago, I wasn’t quite 19 yet and the Army sent me to Korea. I immediately experienced three, very much in my face. forms of culture shock. The fist was the smell that assaulted my nose when the door to the plane opened. The second was the fact that I literally stood out in a crowed, at 6’3″ I was head and shoulders above everyone else, not to mention the only one with hair that wasn’t black. Third, I couldn’t read any billboards, and the only road signs I could read were those with international symbols.

I’m expecting this to be a very different experience. First, I’m fairly certain that even if Germany smells noticeably different, it won’t be as bad as Korea was in the 70’s. Second, in terms of dress and physical appearance, I won’t look all that different than everyone else. My age will make me stand out among the student population, but that is a different thing altogether. Third, I may not be fluent in German yet, but I have enough of a background in the language to at least be able to read signs.

While I do expect some very noticeable differences in the culture, Germany will seem like my home town by comparison to my first tour in Korea.

I am also very excited about this trip. As a History major, I am looking forward to seeing all of the history around me. I’m also looking forward to making friends in Germany that I can compare notes with about our two cultures. As well as getting to know my fellow students I am hoping to meet some locals that are about my age, people that I will have some things in common with in terms of family and experiences.

No matter what my experience turns out to be I know that I am going to enjoy every bit of it, even the challenging parts.

Dave