Because my sister had come to visit and I had a week to burn and we’re both a bit crazy and very adventures and short money, we decided against climbing Kilimanjaro and opted for a week in Egypt instead. We knew in theory the challenges we might face, the beauty we would see, and differences in culture we would encounter, but no amount of reading, planning or philosophizing could prepare us for our Middle East venture. When remembering Egypt, a plethora of emotion arises. Feelings of ecstasy as I remember racing horses through the desert to see the pyramids before sunrise, or meeting the love of my life Eslam on a traditional felucca as we floated down the Nile (Sarah also is his future wife but I am not the jealous type). We climbed Mt. Sinai at dusk and even though we didn’t hear from God we were led up the mountain by our own personal Bedouin who enlightened us on love and life. We explored the temples of Luxor and Aswan, explored the Valley of the Kings and slept in the tomb of Ramesses II. I climbed ¼ up a pyramid and ate so much Egyptian food my waist line was devastated after six days. I was absolutely dazzled by ancient Egypt and felt like the
luckiest girl in the world to be able to experience it.

I couldn’t have asked for a better travel companion than my best friend and sister Sarah. It was she and I versus the world and as a pair we were inseparable with our inside jokes and 21 years of memories but remained incredibly approachable…in fact too approachable.This is the part in this narrative that I divulge a taste of the negative that happened while in the Middle East. In respect to being as PC as possible I’ll keep some thoughts private but I think it’s important to be honest with the good and bad that happens while travelling.

My experience in Egypt was defined as being a white, young female. This might not be the case for all travels in my demographic but in this time of paradigm shifting, religious and political tension, and gender awareness, I spent seven days navigating a culture that fascinated and at times destroyed my adventures spirit. Literally every other man we came in contact with be it married, old, young, single, asked if we had a husband and I couldn’t look a man in the eyes without him saying a cheesy pick up line, leering or even physically grabbing and groping. We were dressed modestly but our friendliness was always mistaken for forwardness. The parts we saw of Egypt looked as if the country was in decay.

We talked to local who are involved in tourism and the consensus was devastation of the industry post revolution. They kept telling us to spread the word that Egypt was safe and a perfect destination. I am hesitant to agree. The desperation and tension post revolution created a climate that ensured we were hassled for money from dawn to dusk and taken advantage of by anyone who could manage it. Even officials were sketch as they asked for tips after performing basic official duties. We were welcomed with tea, coffee, and overt admiration from the majority of those we met but always wary of what was expected of us after. The hassling, gender discrimination and general culture shock we experience was all part of the plan until the 18 hour bus ride.

The bus ride before we climbed Mt. Sinai was a life altering event and the story is long with necessary background information and adequate explanation of events needed but in respect to the readers time I will only say that a mini desert storm took place three hours before our destination which involved my sister and I, a misunderstanding, sexism, fighting, shouting, male bigotry, and a general loss of hope for humanity for a few days. The experience shook us and after that bus ride we acted as a completely different set of travellers.

The revolution was started by women, men and both secular and religious thinkers alike. But after the Muslim Brotherhood took power, many of the hopes and freedoms that were expected have proved in vain. I am not criticizing Islam but I am concerned for those who will be affected negatively under an Islamic state.
As I am writing this, I am thinking of everything I want to say and then remembering I’ve probably said too much. I was in the Middle East for one week and I know I have little credibility or right to make judgment, stereotypes and overall conclusions on the region. I do have my experiences however – good bad and ugly and those experiences are influential in creating my worldvuew.
Egypt was incredible- I learned so much.

The horse I was able to race across the desert and see the pyramids at sunrise

Luxor temple

I have a big enough nose for the both of us

Egyptian Museum!

Our very good friend Eslam on the traditional Fulucca

This temple is only accessible by boat and is one of the eldest temples in all the world

After killing her brother and claiming the throne, Queen Hatshepsut was the first women to realize that ya women can have a piece of the power pie too

Luxor temple

Two weeks left. How can three little words hold so much power and emotion? I am not naïve to the reality that time fly’s when you’re having fun and all that jazz and I am sure words that I will write in following paragraphs will not be unique from other study abroad students/interns that are wrapping up their own adventures. Regardless though, this experience is novel to me and these thoughts and emotions never previously experienced.
Thankfully, it’s not yet time to divulge all the mixed feelings on returning home and I can focus attention to the present and recent past in South Africa…

Concerning work: Pop culture can be incredibly fascinating and I have learned so much at one small seed concerning the use of wordpress, interviewing, social media managing, and office etiquette but as much as I enjoy my work with one small seed I felt the need to do some side freelancing with supernews. Supernews is a citizen generated news publication that focuses on promoting a positive South Africa and looks to stories that inspire and engage socially and politically. This is the kind of stuff I like. I recently just published my first story on the Out of Africa Childrens Fund Hospice on the supernews site.

Before I could write a proper human interest story, I wanted to get personal with the organization and those involved. Because the organization is going through a remodeling, I was able to do some manual work cleaning and organizing and built credibility with the founder Kim Highfield. As we worked closely and went about daily activities together (she even gave me a haircut), I became privy to information concerning non-profits and was able to gain an insider’s view of operations. Today I set up a twitter account for the organization and will continue to participate in any activities the hospice is involved with.

Currently I am in communication with a Kwaito dance group called Sowetos Finest. The group is made out of five guys from Soweto and has a mission of engaging youth to strive for a better life. All members come from townships and know the struggle that young people face when making choices for a better life. Because of the distance from Cape Town to Johannesburg I won’t be able to interview them face to face but will be able to communicate using the handy dandy internet. I am excited to see what this story will look like.

Also this week I am focusing on interviewing local South Africans about their thoughts about the country they live in and incorporate their answers in my video when I return. Because I want answers to be genuine, diverse and meaningful to me, those I interview are people I have built a relationship with for the last 8 weeks. I love the stories I hear- especially the women’s. The more I talk with women, I realize how strong they have to be. South Africa is very patriarchal and although those from Africans and British decent enjoy equality and freedom, many Xhosa and those from tribal heritages still are subject to male superiority. Despite the oppression and objectifying, the women remain incredible mothers, daughters, sisters, wives, and friends.

Another amazing women has come back into my life…my sister!  Because she has been living and working in Australia, I haven’t seen her in nearly a year. She is visiting for the last two weeks I am here and the chance to share the sights, sounds, and people of Cape Town with her has been incredible. She lived in Ghana for 6 months and had made assumptions on South Africa because of her African experience. Every day she is surprised by the stark difference in countries.

It’s going to be such a challenge to make conclusions about my time here because there are no broad generalizations I can make or stereotyping aloud when describing South Africa or my experiences here. Every day is so different, every person so unique, and every feeling original that it makes writing summaries extremely difficult.
Thankfully I have a few more weeks to collect my thoughts. Home awaits but I know I am not ready to leave.

Heather

My sister Sarah is here visiting me from Australia! first time I had seen her in 10 months!

At the top of Lions head we ran into Cirque du Soleil performers here in Cape Town for their show!

Lions head!

South Africans love their rugby!

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Super rugby! Cape Town (Stormers) beat New Zealand (Chiefs) and the crowd was electric!

Sarah and I at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden watching the foreign film City of Gods

Wine and fun at the South African Museum watching live art

Wine tasting in Constantia. Such amazing history and information about wine!

Our amazing guide to the world of wine!

Spent the night in the car to get to our adventure destination in Port Elisabeth

Politics happen. Whether you’re in a formal debate during elections or enjoying a drink at a party, the art of influencing people’s beliefs on a civic or individual level occurs to even the most reluctant of us.  In South Africa, politics can be as blatant as a formal protest concerning equal gender and race rights, as subtle as an underhand comment made by a friend at a party, or as innocent as the type of music played on the radio.

I know SA isn’t unique in this respect but here every interaction seems on display and is so much more tangible to observe.  I got lost today- shocker. Something about losing my train ticket and getting off on the wrong side of the subway…regardless I found myself wondering  around a neighborhood with a bottle of wine in my bag (for a later hike up the mountain)  and a confused face.  I don’t think I have much self-dignity because I’ve never had trouble asking for help or directions or seconds at dinner. First man I saw- I asked, he led me to a shop and we got everything sorted. As we walked away he said that white girls don’t usually trust black men or even really engage with them. This wasn’t the first time I had heard such a comment.

At a party with some local friends I was part of some banter (love banter) and then the conversation turned political in nature (love politics). A lot of comments were thrown about by the whites to the blacks about “your government.”  Although a new SA youth is arising and the future holds good things, the deep divide in loyalty and trust between those in power, those who are rich, and those who get left behind is as relevant as ever. That party was one of the best of my life though with so much diversity representing. I felt like I was with the emerging hipsters of Cape Town.

I can never understand the full complexity of any nation, let alone take a stab after one week of living here, but I find it so interesting that even though whites were the oppressors in the past and the actual government is made primarily of blacks presently the fabric of SA society is so embedded in distrust of the colored.  I know the stats on crime and rape and the horrible things that happen to people who don’t have their guard up or who trust the wrong people. But how awful is it to live life distrusting and stereotyping a whole race or class.

I am thinking out loud and wish my thoughts sounded more intelligent. Just know that there is a bunch going on up there and I am trying to process it all, but sometimes a little word vomit can’t be all that harmful.

Heather