Camels for days: A hello from Egypt

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Because my sister had come to visit and I had a week to burn and we’re both a bit crazy and very adventures and short money, we decided against climbing Kilimanjaro and opted for a week in Egypt instead. We knew in theory the challenges we might face, the beauty we would see, and differences in culture we would encounter, but no amount of reading, planning or philosophizing could prepare us for our Middle East venture. When remembering Egypt, a plethora of emotion arises. Feelings of ecstasy as I remember racing horses through the desert to see the pyramids before sunrise, or meeting the love of my life Eslam on a traditional felucca as we floated down the Nile (Sarah also is his future wife but I am not the jealous type). We climbed Mt. Sinai at dusk and even though we didn’t hear from God we were led up the mountain by our own personal Bedouin who enlightened us on love and life. We explored the temples of Luxor and Aswan, explored the Valley of the Kings and slept in the tomb of Ramesses II. I climbed ¼ up a pyramid and ate so much Egyptian food my waist line was devastated after six days. I was absolutely dazzled by ancient Egypt and felt like the
luckiest girl in the world to be able to experience it.

I couldn’t have asked for a better travel companion than my best friend and sister Sarah. It was she and I versus the world and as a pair we were inseparable with our inside jokes and 21 years of memories but remained incredibly approachable…in fact too approachable.This is the part in this narrative that I divulge a taste of the negative that happened while in the Middle East. In respect to being as PC as possible I’ll keep some thoughts private but I think it’s important to be honest with the good and bad that happens while travelling.

My experience in Egypt was defined as being a white, young female. This might not be the case for all travels in my demographic but in this time of paradigm shifting, religious and political tension, and gender awareness, I spent seven days navigating a culture that fascinated and at times destroyed my adventures spirit. Literally every other man we came in contact with be it married, old, young, single, asked if we had a husband and I couldn’t look a man in the eyes without him saying a cheesy pick up line, leering or even physically grabbing and groping. We were dressed modestly but our friendliness was always mistaken for forwardness. The parts we saw of Egypt looked as if the country was in decay.

We talked to local who are involved in tourism and the consensus was devastation of the industry post revolution. They kept telling us to spread the word that Egypt was safe and a perfect destination. I am hesitant to agree. The desperation and tension post revolution created a climate that ensured we were hassled for money from dawn to dusk and taken advantage of by anyone who could manage it. Even officials were sketch as they asked for tips after performing basic official duties. We were welcomed with tea, coffee, and overt admiration from the majority of those we met but always wary of what was expected of us after. The hassling, gender discrimination and general culture shock we experience was all part of the plan until the 18 hour bus ride.

The bus ride before we climbed Mt. Sinai was a life altering event and the story is long with necessary background information and adequate explanation of events needed but in respect to the readers time I will only say that a mini desert storm took place three hours before our destination which involved my sister and I, a misunderstanding, sexism, fighting, shouting, male bigotry, and a general loss of hope for humanity for a few days. The experience shook us and after that bus ride we acted as a completely different set of travellers.

The revolution was started by women, men and both secular and religious thinkers alike. But after the Muslim Brotherhood took power, many of the hopes and freedoms that were expected have proved in vain. I am not criticizing Islam but I am concerned for those who will be affected negatively under an Islamic state.
As I am writing this, I am thinking of everything I want to say and then remembering I’ve probably said too much. I was in the Middle East for one week and I know I have little credibility or right to make judgment, stereotypes and overall conclusions on the region. I do have my experiences however – good bad and ugly and those experiences are influential in creating my worldvuew.
Egypt was incredible- I learned so much.

The horse I was able to race across the desert and see the pyramids at sunrise

The horse I was able to race across the desert and see the pyramids at sunrise

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Luxor temple

Luxor temple

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I have a big enough nose for the both of us

I have a big enough nose for the both of us

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Egyptian Museum!

Our very good friend Eslam on the traditional Fulucca

Our very good friend Eslam on the traditional Fulucca

This temple is only accessible by boat and is one of the eldest temples in all the world

This temple is only accessible by boat and is one of the eldest temples in all the world

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After killing her brother and claiming the throne, Queen Hatshepsut was the first women to realize that ya women can have a piece of the power pie too

After killing her brother and claiming the throne, Queen Hatshepsut was the first women to realize that ya women can have a piece of the power pie too

Luxor temple

Luxor temple

Two weeks left….

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Two weeks left. How can three little words hold so much power and emotion? I am not naïve to the reality that time fly’s when you’re having fun and all that jazz and I am sure words that I will write in following paragraphs will not be unique from other study abroad students/interns that are wrapping up their own adventures. Regardless though, this experience is novel to me and these thoughts and emotions never previously experienced.
Thankfully, it’s not yet time to divulge all the mixed feelings on returning home and I can focus attention to the present and recent past in South Africa…

Concerning work: Pop culture can be incredibly fascinating and I have learned so much at one small seed concerning the use of wordpress, interviewing, social media managing, and office etiquette but as much as I enjoy my work with one small seed I felt the need to do some side freelancing with supernews. Supernews is a citizen generated news publication that focuses on promoting a positive South Africa and looks to stories that inspire and engage socially and politically. This is the kind of stuff I like. I recently just published my first story on the Out of Africa Childrens Fund Hospice on the supernews site.

Before I could write a proper human interest story, I wanted to get personal with the organization and those involved. Because the organization is going through a remodeling, I was able to do some manual work cleaning and organizing and built credibility with the founder Kim Highfield. As we worked closely and went about daily activities together (she even gave me a haircut), I became privy to information concerning non-profits and was able to gain an insider’s view of operations. Today I set up a twitter account for the organization and will continue to participate in any activities the hospice is involved with.

Currently I am in communication with a Kwaito dance group called Sowetos Finest. The group is made out of five guys from Soweto and has a mission of engaging youth to strive for a better life. All members come from townships and know the struggle that young people face when making choices for a better life. Because of the distance from Cape Town to Johannesburg I won’t be able to interview them face to face but will be able to communicate using the handy dandy internet. I am excited to see what this story will look like.

Also this week I am focusing on interviewing local South Africans about their thoughts about the country they live in and incorporate their answers in my video when I return. Because I want answers to be genuine, diverse and meaningful to me, those I interview are people I have built a relationship with for the last 8 weeks. I love the stories I hear- especially the women’s. The more I talk with women, I realize how strong they have to be. South Africa is very patriarchal and although those from Africans and British decent enjoy equality and freedom, many Xhosa and those from tribal heritages still are subject to male superiority. Despite the oppression and objectifying, the women remain incredible mothers, daughters, sisters, wives, and friends.

Another amazing women has come back into my life…my sister!  Because she has been living and working in Australia, I haven’t seen her in nearly a year. She is visiting for the last two weeks I am here and the chance to share the sights, sounds, and people of Cape Town with her has been incredible. She lived in Ghana for 6 months and had made assumptions on South Africa because of her African experience. Every day she is surprised by the stark difference in countries.

It’s going to be such a challenge to make conclusions about my time here because there are no broad generalizations I can make or stereotyping aloud when describing South Africa or my experiences here. Every day is so different, every person so unique, and every feeling original that it makes writing summaries extremely difficult.
Thankfully I have a few more weeks to collect my thoughts. Home awaits but I know I am not ready to leave.

Heather

My sister Sarah is here visiting me from Australia! first time I had seen her in 10 months!

My sister Sarah is here visiting me from Australia! first time I had seen her in 10 months!

At the top of Lions head we ran into Cirque du Soleil performers here in Cape Town for their show!

At the top of Lions head we ran into Cirque du Soleil performers here in Cape Town for their show!

Lions head!

Lions head!

South Africans love their rugby!

South Africans love their rugby!

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Super rugby!  Cape Town (Stormers) beat New Zealand (Chiefs) and the crowd was electric! Super rugby! Cape Town (Stormers) beat New Zealand (Chiefs) and the crowd was electric!

Sarah and I at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden watching the foreign film City of Gods

Sarah and I at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden watching the foreign film City of Gods

Wine and fun at the South African Museum watching live art

Wine and fun at the South African Museum watching live art

Wine tasting in Constantia.  Such amazing history and information about wine!

Wine tasting in Constantia. Such amazing history and information about wine!

Our amazing guide to the world of wine!

Our amazing guide to the world of wine!

Spent the night in the car to get to our adventure destination in Port Elisabeth

Spent the night in the car to get to our adventure destination in Port Elisabeth

Two weeks in the making….

Consistency can never be overrated. If I had kept a dependable blog every week, I would not be overwhelmed now.  A lifetime happens in 24 hours here let alone two weeks but I digress – let’s give this our best shot…

In the last two weeks I have gone shark cage diving, biked 142k to Cape Point and back, spent 10 hours in a hospital, had my phone stolen (again), fraternised with baboons and their babies, watched documentaries on roof tops, further developed my Xhosa language and muay thai skills all while enjoying some Cape Town wine on the side and working a 9-5.  Each of these stories plays a part in my journey. Whether I am pushing my limits biking 12 hours, looking into the soul of a Great White, sleeping on the hospital floor waiting for my Zimbabwean friend to have his gashed leg (bone showing) stitched up, learning clicks and vocab from the Xhosa ladies, or sweating like a pig at Dragon Power gym sparing with a friend, I am discovering and challenging who I am every day.

142k bike ride!The big question is whether you are going to be able to say a hearty yes to your adventure.

142k bike ride!
The big question is whether you are going to be able to say a hearty yes to your adventure.

TOGETHER we stand, TOGETHER we fall, TOGETHER we win, and winners take ALL!

TOGETHER we stand, TOGETHER we fall, TOGETHER we win, and winners take ALL!

The man who thinks he can and the man who thinks he can't are both right. Which one are you?”

The man who thinks he can and the man who thinks he can’t are both right. Which one are you?”

shark cage diving!

shark cage diving!

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Through these endeavors, I also have the opportunity to be exposed to a variety of people from different walks of life.  The majority of locals here are physically active to the extreme.  There is always someone who is ready to hike a mountain and conquer the world with daring acts of adventure, biking and diving. The lovely ladies who clean the house are teaching me Xhosa. They are so patient with me and sometimes in between learning ‘I am hungry’ (ndilambile) and ‘Where do you stay’ (uhlalaphi?), I get to hear their stories.  Yesterday, the youngest of the four was telling me an embarrassing tale of her friend who was married to a Zimbabwean.  Her friend speaks Xhosa but Zimbabweans speak shona. Upon meeting her in laws her friend greeted them with the informal shona  greeting. The in laws were shocked and never forgave her ignorance. My friend has been married for 7 years to her Zimbabwean husband but since hearing that story has refused to meet the in-laws in fear of making a foupa and embarrassing her husband. At first I was indignant. I needed to empower this woman to take life by the horns and confront the in-laws whether speaking Xhosa, shona, or jibberish- no one should live in such fear! But then she talked of the love she had for her husband and how blessed she was to have such a man in her life. Her eyes lit up when talking about him and the thought of making trouble for him with his parents broke her heart. She says she will know when she is ready and in a better place (she doesn’t want to be a cleaner when she meets them and wants to be fluent in shona)

I learned a lot about family that day.

After X-rays, consulting, stiches and bandages and even though it took 10 hours to be seen at the hospital, my friend got better care than I would of in the States and it cost a fraction of what I would of paid in Oregon.  While in the waiting room, I saw dead bodies being rolled by, mutated jaws due to a hammer fights, and fingers falling off. The chaos was organized however and by the end of the night everyone had been serviced.

I got to be an observer of South African health care that night.

After a little tumble on the scooter. Such a great experience at the hospital!

After a little tumble on the scooter. Such a great experience at the hospital!

The most exciting thing that has taken place over these two weeks has been meeting and working with Kim Highfield.  In 2010 she opened the first children’s hospice in South Africa. After her 3 year old daughter was diagnosed with cancer, she realized the extreme lack of support for families with terminally ill children. Her patron is Desmond Tutu and hopefully I’ll be able to meet him before my visit is over!  Recently I have been cleaning and organizing the place and setting up her social media in order to communicate more effectively and stay connected. I am writing an article on the work she is doing and I couldn’t be more excited.

Kim and Jill getting ready for the children at the Hospice

Kim and Jill getting ready for the children at the Hospice

My take away messages from these last few weeks include: never stop pushing, tugging and challenging doors to be open. Never say no to an experience. Love everyone but don’t trust everyone.  Anything is impossible until it’s done and the Ukulele brings joy and happiness.

Uke playing on the train....didn't get kicked off so I guess thats a good sign ; )

Uke playing on the train….didn’t get kicked off so I guess thats a good sign ; )

What would life be without people?

Let us be grateful to people who make us happy, they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom. ~marcel proust~

What a joy people are. I love food, a personal accomplishment, a beautiful sight or an exciting challenge, but what gives all these things colour is the interactions with others during such pursuits. I have been so blessed with the people I am able to interact daily with here in Cape Town. 2013-01-13 18.38.59 The interns: At first, I was determined to distance myself from the other interns. Although we all come from different countries and are working at unique job placements, I didn’t want anything anchoring me to a label as ‘tourist,’ ‘foreigner’ or the very worst…’American’ ; ) There’s about five apartment style houses throughout Cape Town and 50 interns total. After I got off the plane at 11:30 pm, jet lagged, hungry, and giddy the first night, I ran into some of them going to Stones (a pool bar with half price beers on Wednesday!). Even though they didn’t cut the local label I was searching for, I couldn’t resist going out and downloading about my flight and first impressions of SA. From that night on, I realized I had met a very amazing group of people.

High tea at the Nelson Mandela Hotel with some of my very stylish intern friends ; )

High tea at the Nelson Mandela Hotel with some of my very stylish intern friends ; )

Everyone has come here to invest in a career they feel passionately about- whether that be international law, medicine, film, marketing, social work or financing, each has a story that intrigues and inspires. Ester is from Belgium and is studying international law in Cape Town while interning at a refugee centre. She was the first to show me around the city (the fateful sunburn initiation day) and I’ve learned so much from her about being graceful in difficult situations and since she is a bit of a wine snob, I’v likewise developed a more sophisticated taste for the fermented grape . Kristy is from Singapore, went to school at NYU, was a competitive Latin dancer, and later worked on Wall Street as a banker. Now she researches policies that alleviates poverty in SA and scuba dives with me on the weekends: ) Precious is from New Orleans and has just been offered a yearlong job with the organization she is working for here. Precious is my American friend when we need to talk loud and eat lots and reassure each other that America isn’t as bad as everyone says. I could write pages about all the other interns, the adventures I’ve had with them, and how amazing they all are- but in conclusion I love my experience as an individual and as part of this incredible group.

some of my dearest friends from Singapore, Belgium and New Orleans

some of my dearest friends from Singapore, Belgium and New Orleans

The locals: When it comes to locals there are huge discrepancies in background, race, and economic status. Regardless though, I thrive and live for every interaction good, bad, interesting, awkward or incredible. Afrikaners are from Dutch decent and were the first Europeans to settle in SA. I know how they put up such a fierce fight against the British during the Boer wars now. They are survivors for sure but can come across as a bit abrupt or rude. I’ve really started to appreciate the ones I come in contact with however. Cobus is Afrikaans and is a taxi driver. It’s not safe to take the train after dark so Cobus and I have become quite good friends since he gives me a ride, the inside scoop on Cape Town news, and antidotes from his personal life fairly often. The vendors are also some of my favourite people. Always ready to sell something but also up just for a little chat, my vendor friends have perfected my bargaining skills, and ability to strike up a conversation any time of the day.

These girls were born in Botswana but now live in Canada but have German citizenship!

These girls were born in Botswana but now live in Canada but have German citizenship!

Co-workers: I am so blessed that I get to invest in the people and product of one small seed. From 9-5 every day I am with creative minds and although the team is small, we get life done! This morning the Editor-in-Chief/founder Giuseppe was interviewed on the radio and we enjoyed a little break as we huddled around the speakers to listen to him. The publication is going through some changes concerning productions which allow me to be part of transitions and decision making, making work interesting. I feel like there is the right balance of professionalism and familiarity at work and it’s been an ideal environment to grow as a journalist.

Devils peak hike wasn't as productive as I had hoped

Devils peak hike wasn’t as productive as I had hoped

There is countless interactions routine and spontaneous that I could talk about but in respect to room and the patient reader who has read this far, I will save those stories for another time. here are some links to some of the stories I’ve published https://www.onesmallseed.com/2013/02/passionate-art-interview-with-anwar-davids/ https://www.onesmallseed.com/2013/01/inked-skin-deep-2013-cape-town-tattoo-convention-makes-permanent-impression/ https://www.onesmallseed.com/2013/01/through-rose-glasses-paris-caught-in-coloured-past/ h1 (1)

just another day in Cape Town

just another day in Cape Town

Scuba diving at the beach!  So incredible and something I want to keep doing for the rest of my life

Scuba diving at the beach! So incredible and something I want to keep doing for the rest of my life

A classic dance moves by some friends

A classic dance moves by some friends

at the train station entertaining on a Sunday afternoon

at the train station entertaining on a Sunday afternoon

beer after a day of diving with friends = <3

beer after a day of diving with friends = <3

I want to have a good body but I love food more

I want to have a good body but I love food more

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Nothing like a classy bar after a hard day of eating sweets and treats

Nothing like a classy bar after a hard day of eating sweets and treats

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Everything changes, everything stays the same

ImagePolitics happen. Whether you’re in a formal debate during elections or enjoying a drink at a party, the art of influencing people’s beliefs on a civic or individual level occurs to even the most reluctant of us.  In South Africa, politics can be as blatant as a formal protest concerning equal gender and race rights, as subtle as an underhand comment made by a friend at a party, or as innocent as the type of music played on the radio.

I know SA isn’t unique in this respect but here every interaction seems on display and is so much more tangible to observe.  I got lost today- shocker. Something about losing my train ticket and getting off on the wrong side of the subway…regardless I found myself wondering  around a neighborhood with a bottle of wine in my bag (for a later hike up the mountain)  and a confused face.  I don’t think I have much self-dignity because I’ve never had trouble asking for help or directions or seconds at dinner. First man I saw- I asked, he led me to a shop and we got everything sorted. As we walked away he said that white girls don’t usually trust black men or even really engage with them. This wasn’t the first time I had heard such a comment.

At a party with some local friends I was part of some banter (love banter) and then the conversation turned political in nature (love politics). A lot of comments were thrown about by the whites to the blacks about “your government.”  Although a new SA youth is arising and the future holds good things, the deep divide in loyalty and trust between those in power, those who are rich, and those who get left behind is as relevant as ever. That party was one of the best of my life though with so much diversity representing. I felt like I was with the emerging hipsters of Cape Town.

I can never understand the full complexity of any nation, let alone take a stab after one week of living here, but I find it so interesting that even though whites were the oppressors in the past and the actual government is made primarily of blacks presently the fabric of SA society is so embedded in distrust of the colored.  I know the stats on crime and rape and the horrible things that happen to people who don’t have their guard up or who trust the wrong people. But how awful is it to live life distrusting and stereotyping a whole race or class.

I am thinking out loud and wish my thoughts sounded more intelligent. Just know that there is a bunch going on up there and I am trying to process it all, but sometimes a little word vomit can’t be all that harmful.

Heather

Lost for words…

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flagI am convinced that good writers must lead boring lives. I say this because the more interesting life I have the worst my writing gets. Give me two days on my farm and I will write you 10 pages of brilliance concerning horticulture, how I interact with the world, and the very meaning of life- but two days in Cape Town South Africa and I produce a few scribbles and a bullet list of snippets in my journal. 

Beautiful view of the waterfront and Table Top mountain looming in the distance

The reason being that this adventure from PDX airport to my apartment here in Cape Town could already fill countless pages so I get overwhelmed, pout a little, and then resort to my bullet points. Should I first write extensively about the unmatched beauty of Cape Town’s epic mountains, white beaches, European style cathedrals and the whole adventure paradise aspect of this city? But if I do that I would feel convicted to write equally about my political and social thoughts of the place and how this country is one of contradictions both beautiful and contemptible. 11 official languages alone make for a country that cannot be put in a box or stereotyped. I still have yet to meet the ideal South African because such a person doesn’t exist.  A refugee vendor will be selling gum and cigarettes steps away from a uber hip natural food store with a very white population inside that makes me feel like I am somewhere in Oregon. There are places in the city that expel wealth like sweat on a hot day and then minutes away neighbourhoods that roar poverty.

Evidence of the strong European influences in this nation

Although apartheid was abolished more than two decades ago, I have already experience distrust between whites and blacks. When I couldn’t exchange my money because I didn’t have my passport, a black vendor told me to follow him and he could help. I was immediately on my guard (which a smart traveller should always be) but followed him down an ally and into a room while staying very alert (Michelle Price if you’re reading this I promise I was always looking for escape routes and made sure people were still around ; )  The man sitting at the desk gave a decent exchange for my money and later Benjamin (my new found friends name) accused whites of not trusting blacks and was surprised that I came with him. I told him people probably just have a general distrust in humanity but still that experience was very interesting. On another note I have acquired sunburn that screams stupid tourist.

A statue of coke crates to honour the South African athletes who took medals in the Olympics

In order to fully appreciate my arrival, I must backtrack and talk about my departure. Turns out my flight left 24 earlier than I thought so that was a bit stressful but with the help of my amazing and beautiful room mates I got packed, cleared out my room and headed to the big city (and still had time for pancakes at 1:00 AM), then the passport people said I needed my yellow fever vaccination or I wouldn’t be let into the country. I couldn’t do anything at that point so I took a flight of faith and experienced a stress and anxiety I hope never to feel again. My fears were for naught – I’ve never had a more easy time with immigrations and apart from my bag getting on the wrong  flight my arrival went like clockwork.  I got in around 11:30 PM and headed to the bar with the other interns for a beer and pool.

birds eye view of the city

There is about 50 interns here in Cape Town and I live with about 10 of them. They come from all over the globe including Italy, Germany, Switzerland, South Africa, and Singapore.  I start my internship tomorrow and couldn’t be more excited. In conclusion, I think South Africa is a melting pot and a layered cake of cultures that blend with each other at times and then stand in stark contrast with each other at others.  My hope is to absorb all that Cape Town has to offer- especially the wine. Jane Austin, Napoleon, Obama, and Charles Dickinson sought after South African wine so I think I’ll be in good company.

Heather

A long awaited journey begins…

Aside

Firsts are tricky business. Whether it’s first day on the job, first kiss, or first bite into Aunt Sally’s infamous meatloaf, it can be a challenge to know exactly how to react to each particular situation. I find myself taking the first steps to a journey. I couldn’t be more eager, anxious and overwhelmed.Image

I go to Cape Town South Africa where I will intern with the pop culture publication One Small Seed. Armed with determination, talent, wanderlust, desire to succeed, and my ukulele, I prepare to leave January 7th and will return March 29th.

I have experienced many countries ranging from Slovakia, Germany, and Costa Rica to Australia, the Philippines and Italy, but this trip is a first to an African country and a first to live abroad for such amount of time.

South Africa has always sparked my interest. South Africa has long been the subject of debate concerning inequality, race discrimination, crime, and other crippling features. Despite historical and present hardships however, South Africa continues to be a country that is diverse, dynamic and destined for great things. Working with One Small Seed, I will be able to observe and report on this South Africa. By learning the influences and uniqueness of South African art, music, and literature, I will discover what captures the minds of South Africans daily.

In the early stages of deciding where I would spend the next three months of life, I wanted to write and witness “serious” news- the debates, political arguments, and rallies. When the door opened to work with One Small Seed, I realized the fit couldn’t be more perfect.

Scottish politician Andrew Fletcher once said- “Let me make the songs of a nation- I care not who makes its laws.”  A song or work of art can pierce the mind, change behavior or reflect the climate of a nation more than a law ever could. I plan to accurately and honestly reflect events and boldly stand for news that will inform and inspire the readership.

No matter how many articles I read, YouTube videos I watch, or opinions I gather on South Africa, I am confident I really know nothing at all and can’t wait for the lessons learned, people met, and unexpected journeys had during my time in Cape Town.

I don’t think I am aware of most preconceived notions I have concerning South Africa. Until I quite establish myself in SA, I find myself blissfully ignorant of my ignorance but I am confident I shall be exposed to my presumptuous, westernized view of the world in good time.

I am aware that before my journey ends I will have experienced many beautiful, awkward, exiting and terrifying firsts. Some including: first day on the job and first haircut in a foreign country. Naturally, I hope both these experiences will be positive ones but even if they side with the uncomfortable, I trust any endeavor I commit to will contribute to my grown professionally and personally. As the first of the year approaches so does my anticipation. Thank God the Mayans were wrong about 2012…I have to many firsts too experience in South Africa before the end of the world.

Heather