Because my sister had come to visit and I had a week to burn and we’re both a bit crazy and very adventures and short money, we decided against climbing Kilimanjaro and opted for a week in Egypt instead. We knew in theory the challenges we might face, the beauty we would see, and differences in culture we would encounter, but no amount of reading, planning or philosophizing could prepare us for our Middle East venture. When remembering Egypt, a plethora of emotion arises. Feelings of ecstasy as I remember racing horses through the desert to see the pyramids before sunrise, or meeting the love of my life Eslam on a traditional felucca as we floated down the Nile (Sarah also is his future wife but I am not the jealous type). We climbed Mt. Sinai at dusk and even though we didn’t hear from God we were led up the mountain by our own personal Bedouin who enlightened us on love and life. We explored the temples of Luxor and Aswan, explored the Valley of the Kings and slept in the tomb of Ramesses II. I climbed ¼ up a pyramid and ate so much Egyptian food my waist line was devastated after six days. I was absolutely dazzled by ancient Egypt and felt like the
luckiest girl in the world to be able to experience it.

I couldn’t have asked for a better travel companion than my best friend and sister Sarah. It was she and I versus the world and as a pair we were inseparable with our inside jokes and 21 years of memories but remained incredibly approachable…in fact too approachable.This is the part in this narrative that I divulge a taste of the negative that happened while in the Middle East. In respect to being as PC as possible I’ll keep some thoughts private but I think it’s important to be honest with the good and bad that happens while travelling.

My experience in Egypt was defined as being a white, young female. This might not be the case for all travels in my demographic but in this time of paradigm shifting, religious and political tension, and gender awareness, I spent seven days navigating a culture that fascinated and at times destroyed my adventures spirit. Literally every other man we came in contact with be it married, old, young, single, asked if we had a husband and I couldn’t look a man in the eyes without him saying a cheesy pick up line, leering or even physically grabbing and groping. We were dressed modestly but our friendliness was always mistaken for forwardness. The parts we saw of Egypt looked as if the country was in decay.

We talked to local who are involved in tourism and the consensus was devastation of the industry post revolution. They kept telling us to spread the word that Egypt was safe and a perfect destination. I am hesitant to agree. The desperation and tension post revolution created a climate that ensured we were hassled for money from dawn to dusk and taken advantage of by anyone who could manage it. Even officials were sketch as they asked for tips after performing basic official duties. We were welcomed with tea, coffee, and overt admiration from the majority of those we met but always wary of what was expected of us after. The hassling, gender discrimination and general culture shock we experience was all part of the plan until the 18 hour bus ride.

The bus ride before we climbed Mt. Sinai was a life altering event and the story is long with necessary background information and adequate explanation of events needed but in respect to the readers time I will only say that a mini desert storm took place three hours before our destination which involved my sister and I, a misunderstanding, sexism, fighting, shouting, male bigotry, and a general loss of hope for humanity for a few days. The experience shook us and after that bus ride we acted as a completely different set of travellers.

The revolution was started by women, men and both secular and religious thinkers alike. But after the Muslim Brotherhood took power, many of the hopes and freedoms that were expected have proved in vain. I am not criticizing Islam but I am concerned for those who will be affected negatively under an Islamic state.
As I am writing this, I am thinking of everything I want to say and then remembering I’ve probably said too much. I was in the Middle East for one week and I know I have little credibility or right to make judgment, stereotypes and overall conclusions on the region. I do have my experiences however – good bad and ugly and those experiences are influential in creating my worldvuew.
Egypt was incredible- I learned so much.

The horse I was able to race across the desert and see the pyramids at sunrise

Luxor temple

I have a big enough nose for the both of us

Egyptian Museum!

Our very good friend Eslam on the traditional Fulucca

This temple is only accessible by boat and is one of the eldest temples in all the world

After killing her brother and claiming the throne, Queen Hatshepsut was the first women to realize that ya women can have a piece of the power pie too

Luxor temple